Lyabi-Hauz Ensemble, Bukhara

Lyabi-Hauz Ensemble is a historic architectural complex in the heart of Bukhara. It consists of two madrasahs and a khanaka - a lodging place for dervishes and pilgrims. These centuries-old buildings surround a reservoir known as Lyabi-Hauz, from which the entire ensemble takes its name.

The Lyabi-Hauz reservoir, created several centuries ago, continues to attract both tourists and locals. In earlier times, such artificial pools - known as hauzes - served as vital sources of drinking water. They also helped regulate the harsh Central Asian climate by creating a cooler microclimate. Typically located in open spaces like marketplaces or residential hubs, khauzes were central to urban life.

During the Soviet era, many of Bukhara’s reservoirs were drained due to concerns about waterborne diseases. Although Lyabi-Hauz survived longer than most, it too was eventually emptied, and a sports ground was built in its place. Local residents used the space for volleyball and the traditional Uzbek sport - kurash. In the 1950s, a major fire broke out in a nearby grocery store, prompting authorities to refill the reservoir for fire safety purposes.

Today, a fountain sits at the center of Lyabi-Hauz, and the area around it is lined with open-air cafés, restaurants, and hotels. In the evenings, the square comes alive with activity - a lively scene of diners and strollers enjoying the cooler hours by the gentle glow of streetlights.

The oldest structure in the Lyabi-Hauz complex is Kukeldash Madrasah, built between 1568 and 1579 during the reign of Abdullah Khan II. It was funded by Kulbaba Kukeldash, a close associate of the khan, after whom the madrasah is named. At the time, Bukhara served as the capital of the Bukhara Khanate, and Kulbaba Kukeldash aimed to establish the largest educational institution in the region. Even today, it remains one of the largest madrasahs in Central Asia, housing a mosque, a darshana (lecture hall), and 160 khujras (cells) arranged around its perimeter. Besides its educational role, the madrasah also served practical needs - its ground floor outer corridors were occupied by merchants.

Kukeldash Madrasah is noted for its refined architectural detail. Its domes are adorned with geometric motifs that lend a lace-like airiness, as if floating toward the sky. The portal (peshtak) and vaulted halls (ayvans) are clad in intricate green and blue mosaics arranged in precise, traditional patterns. In the madrasah’s inner courtyard, visitors can explore numerous artisan workshops and browse souvenir stalls offering handcrafted goods - embossed tableware, vibrant skullcaps, ceramics, carved boxes, camel wool products, and more.

Today, the Kukeldash Madrasah houses a branch of the Bukhara State Museum-Reserve. Its exhibition highlights the literary movement that emerged in Bukhara in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Among the displays are rare books published over a century ago and portraits of celebrated Uzbek writers.

Between 1622 and 1623, two more buildings were added to the ensemble: Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah and Nadir Divan-Begi Khanaka. Both are named after the vizier who served at the court of Imamkuli Khan. Together with the Kukeldash Madrasah, these structures formed the unified Lyabi-Hauz ensemble.

Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah rises gracefully above the Lyabi-Hauz reservoir, captivating visitors with its elaborate ornamentation and rich exterior decoration. The entrance portal (peshtak) is decorated with images of mythical Simurgh birds, whose heads are turned toward the sun, which is depicted with a human face. The walls are embellished with vivid majolica tiles forming mesmerizing, interconnected designs.

Originally intended as a caravanserai, the building served as a rest stop for merchants and porters transporting goods along the Silk Road. Later, it was repurposed as a madrasah.

Standing opposite is Nadir Divan-Begi Khanaka, which completes the architectural composition. Inside are cells for dervishes - wandering Sufi practitioners who traveled to spread the teachings of Islam.

Another highlight of the Lyabi-Hauz complex is the monument to Khoja Nasreddin, the witty and beloved folk character of many Eastern tales and satirical anecdotes. Seated astride a donkey, grinning mischievously, he seems to share a silent joke with passersby. This timeless trickster figure was so widely embraced that in 2022, stories of Khoja Nasreddin were inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

During your visit to Bukhara, you’re likely to return to Lyabi-Hauz more than once - in the morning to watch the city stir to life, and in the evening to sip tea beside the water. Each visit reveals a new facet of this enduring and ever-vibrant place.