Mountaineering 3 :: Lenin Peak (7,134m)

Osh, Lenin Peak, Achik-Tash (Base Camp) etc.
Lenin Peak (7,134m)
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22 Days

Best season: July 15 - August 25

Standard program: Bishkek-Bishkek

Scheme of the program

Days Itinerary Accommodation
1. International flight to Bishkek. -
2. Arrival in Bishkek. Domestic morning flight to Osh. Hotel 3*
3. Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m). Base Camp Tents
4-18. Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).  
19. Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh. Hotel 3*
20. Domestic flight to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel. Hotel 3*
21. International flight from Bishkek. -

Service included in standard program Bishkek-Bishkek:

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek (return way)
  • Airport transfers in Osh
  • Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh *)
  • Airport transfers in Bishkek on outward travel
Accommodation:
  • in Bishkek: Hotel 3* - for 1 night (including breakfast)
  • in Osh: Hotel 3* – for 2 nights (excluding breakfast)
  • in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses
  • in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis
  • Full board in the Base Camp (3700m)
  • Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
  • Summer Shower in Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
  • Mess tent / Yurt in the Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
  • Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

Standard program: Osh-Osh

Scheme of the program

Days Itinerary Accommodation
1. International flight to Osh (directly from Russia and China). -
2. Arrival in Osh. Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m). Base Camp Tents
3-17. Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).  
18. Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh. Hotel 3*
19. Departure by morning flight. -

Service included in standard program Osh-Osh:

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Airport transfers in Osh
  • Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh
Accommodation:
  • in Osh: Guest House - 1 night excluding breakfast
  • in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses
  • in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis
  • Full board in the Base Camp (3700m)
  • Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
  • Summer Shower in Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
  • Mess tent / Yurt in the Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
  • Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

Budget program

Service included in budget program:

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Airport transfers in Osh
  • Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh
Accommodation:
  • in Base Camp: climber’s own tents – for 6 nights
  • in Advanced Base Camp: climber’s own tents – for 4 nights
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
  • Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides

Note: Duration of program can be changed by request.

Service available at extra payment (not included in standard programs):

  • Transfer / flight from Almaty to Bishkek and Osh.
  • Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek

Note: Kyrgyz Airlines reserves the right to change air fare without prior notice. 

Accommodation in Bishkek:

  • Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room: incl. breakfast

Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, Guest Houses and Apartments are available by request.

  • Meals in Osh and Bishkek

Service available at extra payment in Base Camp and in Advanced Base Camp:

  1. Extra meals in Base Camp (3700m);
  2. Extra meals in Advanced Base Camp (4200m);
  3. Dehydrated meals for ascent: by price list;
  4. Bar;
  5. Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type. 

Note: Empty canisters have to be returned to the Base Camp   Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear) 6 Mountain Guide 7 Mountain Guide trained according to programme of UIAGM standards
NB: We recommend guide to client ratio as 1:3 maximum. For group of 4 clients it is recommended to have the second Guide.  8 Horse (BC to ABC, 4200m)   Porterage service 9 ABC (4200m) - Camp 2 (5100m) 10 Camp 2 (5200m) - Camp 3 (6100m) 11 Camp 3 (6100m) - Camp 4 (6400m) 12 Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (Thuraya airtime is charged extra) 13 Use of sat phone in ABC is free of charge, cost of calls and sms only are paid.

Extensions:

  • Acclimatization program for Lenin Peak in Kyrgyz Range on Ak-Sai Glacier
  • Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Lenin Peak
  • Excursions in Osh, Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others

Route description:

Classic Route via Razdelnaya Peak

Trail on Lenin Glacier from ABC at 4200m to Camp 2 at 5300mFrom Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“wild onion meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up Lenin Glacier begins (about 5 km from Base Camp). Walk along the Glacier further for 5 km to the altitude of 4200m where Advanced Base Camp is located on the moraine near the head of glacier. Approximate time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours of hiking.

From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp, 4200m) cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the "Skovorodka" (“frypan”). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly recommended to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 climbers. Relatively steep (45º+) part of snow or ice between camps 1 and 2 are protected by fixed ropes. But be aware that in some parts ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section begins the traverse to Camp 2, which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300m. Approximate ascent time from ABC at 4200m to Camp 2 at 5300m is 6-8 hours. This section can be exhausting in sunny weather due to the heat.

From Camp 2 at 5300m ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100 m where Camp 3 can be set up on the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100m. Approximate ascent time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours. This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses where rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in case of bad weather or emergency.

From Camp 3 at 6100m ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish Camp 4 if required). Above this plateau is a short steepest snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope and an ice axe may be necessary, care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent. Above this there is a rocky section before reaching the pre summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134m. Approximate time from Camp 3 to summit and return is 10-15 hours. The whole route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.

List of equipment: 
High altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, baselayer, down jacket, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood, warm & waterproof gloves or mitts, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, karabiners (2 x screwgate), prussic loops x 2 (5m / 16ft of 6mm cord), rope, ice axe (light, not technical), sleeping bag (up to -25C), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (40 l minimum), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, gas-stove and kitchen/dining set, medical aid kit.

Lenin peak, region description

Lenin peak regional description

The northernmost of Pamir's ranges is the Zaalai range, rising as a gigantic wall over the Alai valley. The central part of the Zaalai range is the highest and the most monolithic. Its length is 92km and its average height is about 6,000m. There are many peaks of more then 6,000m, the highest point being Lenin peak (7,134m). The largest glaciers of the Zaalai range are the Lenin, Korzhenevskogo, Oktyabrsky, Big Sauk-Dara, and Small Sauk-Dara glaciers, tumbling down from Lenin peak; the total area of these glaciers is about 800 sq km.

The southern slope is sheer and rocky. Its valleys hang over the Muksuu River. It is an extremely inaccessible region.

The northern slope facing the Alai valleys is wide and gently sloping, there are neither deep valleys nor high spurs. This easily accessible region can be reached by highway.

The length of Lenin glacier is 13.5km; its area is 55.3 sq km. It is the largest hollow glacier of the northern Zaalai slopes. The surface of the glacier is clear, with a few crevasses. The Base Camp "Achik-Tash" (3,600m) is located at the bottom of Lenin glacier on the Achik-Tash plateau, surrounded by blue lakes. The comfortable location of the camp and warm weather conditions allow fro a nice break after difficult ascents.

Easy approaches to the summit areas allow mountaineers to achieve good acclimatization for the ascent to Lenin Peak. Climate conditions in the Base Camp area are milder than in other regions of the Pamir. The average temperature in July is +100C. The slopes of Lenin Peak are snow and ice fields. There are no sheer cliffs and slopes, which allows for ascents without complicated mountaineering techniques.

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