Climbing Talgar Peak (5017m)

Almaty, Medeo, Issyk Lake, Jarasai river, Akkol Lake, Korzhenevskogo glacier, Gorina glacier, Eden glade, Kokbulak pass
Climbing of Talgar peak (H-5017). The scheme climbing on the Talgar peak. The program climbing on the Talgar peak.
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11 Days

The scheme climbing on the Talgar peak

The program:

Duration: 11 days
Accommodation: 2 nights in hotel, 8 nights in tents 
Category of difficulty: AAA
Season: July - September. Optimal time is July 25 - August 10.

Travel itinerary: Almaty - Medeo - Issyk Lake - Jarasai river - Akkol Lake - Korzhenevskogo glacier - Gorina glacier - Eden glade - Kokbulak pass - Almaty

Day 1. Arrival in Almaty. Transfer to hotel, accommodation in hotel Otrar" ****. Rest. Breakfast. City sightseeing: visit to the 28 Panfilov guardsmen memorial, Cathedral, Museum of national musical instruments, National museum, Medeo gorge, and Republic square (4 hours). Lunch at restaurant "Kazakh Aul". Dinner at restaurant "Otrar". Overnight in hotel.

Day 2. Breakfast. Early departure: Almaty - Issyk village - Issyk Lake (1760m) (70 km). Hike: Issyk lake - Ivanov's ravine - Jarasai River (2230m) (6 km). Lunch en-route. Hike along the bed of the Ili River, which was re-shaped by a big mudflow in 1963. We will see huge boulders (20x30m) along the way. It is a very complicated route. We will use ropes to pass through the most difficult and dangerous places. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 3. Breakfast. Hike: Jarasai river ("Bear ravine") - Bozgul valley (2650m) - Akkol lake (3350m) (9 km). Daily elevation gain of 1000m. Past the Jarasai River trek through a fir forest and out onto a moraine, which forms a kind of dam for Akkol Lake. The water in the lake is murky, but the landscape surroundings are beautiful. Lunch en-route. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 4. Breakfast. Hike: Akkol Lake - Kokbulak pass (4036m) - side moraine of the Korjenevskogo glacier (Eden glade) (3900m) (6 km from Akkol Lake we will hike up the right gorge which leads to Kokbulak pass. From the pass, a superb panorama of the Northern Tien-Shan mountains opens up. Descent from the pass through a narrow passage to Korzhenevskogo glacier. Lunch en-route near Kokbulak pass. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 5. Breakfast. Hike: Eden glacier - Korzhenevskogo glacier - Gorina glacier (4100m) (5 km). Our route is along the surface of Korzhenevskogo glacier, on which are many crevasses. To the right, the walls of Talgar Peak rise. Set up of base camp on the moraine of Gorina glacier. Lunch. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 6. Breakfast. Climbing of Talgar Peak. Lunch. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 7. Breakfast. Spare day. Lunch. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 8. Breakfast. Hike: Base camp - Korzhenevskogo glacier - Eden glade (5 km). Lunch en-route. Dinner, Night in tents.

Day 9. Breakfast. Hike: Eden glade - Kokbulak pass (4036m) - Akkol Lake - Jarasai River (2230m) (15 km). Lunch en-route. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 10. Breakfast. Hike: Jarasai River - Issyk River - Issyk Lake (1760m)(6 km). Lunch en-route. Transfer: Issyk Lake - Almaty (70 km). Accommodation in hotel "Otrar" ****. Dinner at restaurant "Otrar". Overnight.

Day 11. Departure from Almaty.

Additional information

1. For a long time the classical approach to Talgar Peak was through the Almatinskyi nature reserve from the town of Talgar upwards along the Middle Talgar River. But due to current difficulties in obtaining permits to enter the nature reserve, we use another, quicker and more comfortable route to reach Talgar Peak. It is described in the "Day by Day" program.


2. On the second day of the program, it will be necessary to cross the river several times. That is why it is necessary to start our passage as early as possible, before the water level starts rising.

3. The Road from Almaty to Issyk village is asphalted. We use small, comfortable minibuses with no A/C.

4. If you decide to take a helicopter flight from Almaty to the base camp on Gorin glacier, you should inform the company at least 2 days prior to the flight. We offer this service for an additional fee. Flight time Almaty - base camp - Almaty is 1 hour. Program finish time is the same regardless.

5. Your personal gear and camping equipment will be carried by porters from Issyk Lake to the base camp on Gorin glacier and back. Each expedition member is allowed to give 20 kg of his personal gear to the porter to carry.

6. You may request an additional porter to carry your personal equipment to the base camp and back. You should inform us of this two days prior to beginning of expedition.

7. Issyk village is situated to the southeast, 55 km from Almaty on the right bank of the Ili River, and was founded in 1854. There is an Issyk Hill in Issyk village - a graveyard from the time of the Sak nomadic people (5th c. BC). In 1969 - 1970 during archaeological excavations at that site, the grave of the so-called "Golden man" was found. It was a mummy of a young warrior, in a suit of armor made from pure gold. Subsequently, the image of the "Golden man" has become one of the symbols of Kazakhstan.

8. Issyk Lake is located 15 km from Issyk village. In 1963, a huge mudflow destroyed the lake, so now it is nowhere near as big as it used to be.

9. If you wish, and the weather allows, you may climb the nearby Bliznets ("Twin") and Aktau Peaks after you've climbed Talgar Peak.  

We hope you like the program and assure you that we are absolutely open to any suggestions to increase the range of our services for the entire satisfaction of our clients and are happy to meet your special requirements.

You can alter the duration of your tour and places of visits by adding one of the extensions. Our tour operator will work closely with you or your travel agent to carefully prepare an itinerary based on your stated interests.


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