A visit & stay with an ethnic Tajik family in the legendary mountain village of Brichmulla
Former soviet citizens heard about the historic Brichmulla from the songs of the famous bards, the Nikitins. Frankly speaking - this village does not exist anymore, and life has changed, as the political and economic situation has made the life of the village of Brichmulla absolutely different. At any rate, the particular spirit and atmosphere of the place has kept its original character. And through the years, this is the main factor which has attracted ethnographers, historians and collectors of folk art.
Brichmulla C.B.T. in Uzbekistan. Rural tourism in Uzbekistan
The village of Brichmulla is located in the south-eastern part of the Charvak water reservoir at an elevation of 960 meters in the western extremity of the Koksuy mountain range (Western Tyan Shan). Its population is about 5 thousand people, 90% of whom are ethnic Tadjiks. In the village people fluently speak both Uzbek and Russian, and some of them know foreign languages. Distance from Tashkent is 120 km, on paved roads. From Gazalkent, which is located 57 km from the capital, there are two roads:
- Across the dam of the Charvak water reservoir;
- Through the Melovoy pass and the Chimgan resort area.
About Brichmulla in detail >>>
The family of Jura Odinaev, the chairman of the countryside assembly of Brichmulla village, has been living here since the 1950's. Before, there was an orchard that belonged to the family. Now an irrigation ditch, which serves as a boundary with their neighbors, still crosses the territory of the orchard. The old tradition is still observed: there is no fence between neighbors' areas, just a narrow irrigation ditch, from where a neighbor's orchard begins.
The mother of the host, Kurbonbu-opa, lives in the house (her name was given in honor of the Muslim holiday "Kurban- Khayyit"; she was born on the same day). Kurbonbu-opa is 73, and she has more then 80 grandchildren and great-grandchildren, and all of whom come from different towns and villages to gather in the house for special occasions several times a year. And everyone is accommodated!
Jura himself was born in 1959, and as a coincidence he was also born on the Muslim Holiday "Kurban-Khayyit". He and his wife, Shakhida-opa, have three sons and one daughter. Two nephews, one of the fathers' sisters and an aunt of the host also live in the house.
The house consists of three separate parts, each part having several guest rooms (total rooms - 5, total beds - 8, of which 2 are Doubles). One room is astonishing with its unique decoration of colored glass. The history of the decorated room is as follows: in 1971, guests came to Jura's father; he was a chairman of the Bostanlyk district collective farm. They were specialists from "Metrostroy" and of course were invited to stay as guests for several days. One of the guests liked it so much that he promised to come again and assist in the colored glass decoration of the room where they stayed. So it happened. Since that time, many notable and famous people of Uzbekistan have stayed there; one of them being an Ambassador of the US, Mr. Henry Lee Clark. These days, in the center of their property, Jura-aka is building a large two-story house, with a restroom on each floor, and wonderful views of the Charvak water reservoir (located 150 meters from the house) and the surrounding mountains. There are also restrooms, a separate shower stand, and a bath-house in the courtyard
The Odinaevs also own a large almond plantation and some orchards, located not far from the village. That is why, even in the middle of spring, there is plenty of fruit on the table - fragrant pears, thin-skinned almonds, not to mention the food prepared by Shakhida-opa. In the house, aside from the national Uzbek and Tadjik cuisine, there are also traditional Brichmulla dishes being cooked, such as "safedak" - cooked from the starch plant "olga" with milk, "kabudak" - similar to "safedak" but with the addition of thyme (or mint) and sour milk "katyk", "shirbirin" - boiled rice, "ugro" - noodles, "yarisa" - prepared from manually cracked wheat, and the meat dish "ajab-sanda". In winter they eat the high-calorie food "kurtoba", which is prepared from attenuated "kurt" (cheese balls) and butter.
Thanks to the fact that Jura -aka has high authority and a good knowledge of the territory and its history and archaeology, he can show his guests the most interesting places in Brichmulla, most of which are located on the frontier zone, access to which is not allowed without special permission.
There is a private folklore band, football field (100 meters from Juras' house), racing field, training equipment, and a tennis court. All of this is at your service.
It is possible to arrange horse back riding and trekking tours in the surrounding canyons, excursions in the village, and water cruises on the Charvak water reservoir.
The cost of accommodation in the Odinaevs' house is US$ 25 per day, excluding meals.
Would you like to visit the mysterious and legendary Brichmulla, see the life and traditions of the mountain Tadjiks, and listen to the wonderful stories and legends of the local people?
Travelers' feedback about visiting the family of Jura Odinaev:
Alejandro Slobodianik. Caracas, Venezuela >>>