Climbing Peak Lenin
Climbing in Kyrgyzstan. Combined tour in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan
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Peak Lenin (7134 m), one of the highest summits in the Pamirs, is located in the middle of the Zaalaiski ridge and administratively belongs to the Chon-alaisky district of the Osh region, Kyrgyzstan. Peak Lenin contains a massive amount of ice and snow, and stretches from the Krylenko Pass ((5820 m) in the east, to Mount Razdelnaya (6148 m) in the west. Many glaciers flow down the northern and southern slopes of Peak Lenin. The largest are Lenin Glacier (length 13.5 km, area 55.3 km2) and Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier (length 20.6 km, area 23.5 km2). Numerous tributaries of the Kyzylsu River, the main river of the Alaiskaya Valley, originate at the northern glaciers of Lenin Peak. The summit of Peak Lenin towers 3000 m over the amphitheater of the Lenin Glacier. The northern and southern slopes, jagged with deep fissures (up to 100 m deep), are 45o - 50o steep. Avalanches and snow slides are frequent on the slopes of Peak Lenin. The snow line of the northern slope is 4200 - 4500 m; and on the southern slope 4800 - 5400 m. The climate varies from moderate at the base, in the Alaiskaya Valley, to arctic at high altitudes. Gale-force winds are frequent at the summit.
Osh is the nearest city from which expeditions to Peak Lenin begin, after which groups usually travel along the Pamir road, across the Taldyk Pass (3550 above sea level) to the Alaiskaya Valley, in off road vehicles. The tour continues further from the settlement of Sary-Tash across the Kyzylsu River, up its tributary, the Achik-Tash River, to the edelweiss glade, where camps are usually set up. You can ride 5 km more to the Lukovaya glade, after which all travel is on foot. Generally, the trip from Osh to the camp takes about 8 - 10 hours. The camp can also be reached by helicopter from Osh (40 min flight) or Tashkent (2 hr. 30 min. flight). For the last two years, however this method has not been used due to the high cost of the flight.
In addition to Peak Lenin, the Zaalaiskiy Ridge has a great number of summits over 6000 m high, which are of interest to both experienced mountaineers and beginners. Like Peak Lenin, they are characterized by their accessibility. The Kyzyl-Agyn summit (6683 m), the Latviya and Estoniya summits (6211 m and 6282 m), the Yedinstva summit (6673 m), the Spartak summit (6183 m), the Dzerzhinski summit (6713 m) and the Krasin summit (5998 m) are of interest to expeditions in the area of the large glaciers of Korzhenevski and Koman. Trekking is also possible. The Alaiskaya Valley in and of itself is also interesting for tourists.
Hemmed in by the Alay and Zaalaiskiy ridge, the valley stretches 135 km and 8 - 22 km wide. The average height of the valley is 3000 m. During the Soviet era, some 1 million head of cattle were kept here. People living in the Alaiskaya Valley still live a simple lifestyle, preserving their nomadic traditions. Tourists can enter the yurt of a chaban (shepherd) and have a cup of tea or airan (local yogurt) with flat cakes.
Day 1: Arrival in Tashkent airport. Transfer to hotel. Accommodation and lunch. Afternoon excursion: Amir Temur square, Theater square, Museum of History of Uzbekistan, Independence square, local "Broadway" - a walking street with street artists, paintings bazaar, boutiques, eatery places, entertainment complex, fountains and parks. Dinner. Overnight in Tashkent.
Day 2: Breakfast. Transfer to Fergana Valley. Crossing Uzbek-Kyrgyz border. Transfer to Osh. Lunch. Accommodation in Guest House. Dinner. Overnight in Osh.
Day 3: Breakfast. Filling out customs documents. Transfer to Achik-Tash. Lunch. Base camp on the Loukovaya Glade at an elevation of 3800 m. Dinner. Overnight in tents.
Day 4: Preparation for passage to the Alpine zone. Overnight in tents.
Day 5: Whole day of travel on the glacier. Base camp. Trek over Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4200 m). Ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours along a good mountain path. Usually there is snow on the pass. Overnight in tents.
Day 6: Ascent to Peak Lenin. Lunch during ascent. Overnight in tents.
Day 7 - 18: Return to the Lukovaya Glade.
Day 19: Rest day.
Day 20: Transfer to Osh. Lunch. Accommodation in hotel. Excursion around town. Dinner. Overnight in Osh.
Day 21: Breakfast. Transfer to Kyrgyz-Uzbek border. Crossing the border. Transfer to Tashkent. Lunch. Accommodation in hotel. Free time. Overnight in Tashkent.
Day 22: Breakfast. Transfer to Tashkent airport for flight to next destination (according to time table).
Detailed plan of ascent.
Day 5: Base camp. Transit over Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4200 m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours along a good mountain path. Usually there is snow on the pass.
Day 6: Descent to the left moraine of the Lenin Glacier. There is the possibility of landslides and rock-falls on some parts of the path. Time: 30-40 min. A river must be crossed carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout the daylight hours.
Day 7: Cross the left moraine of the glacier to the Lenin Glacier (4100 m).Total time: 1-1.5 hours.
Day 8: Hike to camp #1 (4200 m), (1.5-2.5 hrs).
Day 9: Trek along the Lenin Glacier up to the beginning of the pitch. Total time: 1-2 hours. Many small crevasses exist along the route. If there is much snow ropes may be needed. Final elevation for the day - 5000 m.
Day 10: Ascent of sleep snow/ice slope with crampons. Fixed rope ascent (100 vertical meters, 40 - 45 degrees), after which slope flattens out. Wide crevasses exist, and aluminum/rope ladders and fixed ropes may be required. Total time: 2-3 hours. Final elevation for the day - 5100 m.
Day 11: Traverse around the slope onto a plateau, where Camp #2 is situated. Big crevasses. The camp is situated on a scree slope. Total time: 1-2 hrs. We recommend that ropes be used throughout this section as well.
Day 12: From camp #2 to the ridge along a steep slope. If there is not much snow there may be a problem with crevasses. Total time: 1-2.5 hours. Strong winds on the ridge are possible.
Day 13: Move along the ridge towards Razdelniy Peak (6200 m). ) with strong winds and deep snow. Traverse of the summit to the left (sleep slope up to 50 degrees). In the case of bad weather - we will go over the summit. Total time: 2-4 hrs. Camp #3 (6100 m) is situated on the saddle. There are often strong winds, especially at night.
Day 14: Steep ice/rock slope. Total time: 1.2-3 hrs.
Day 15: Traverse along a narrow ridge to the "Nosh", with no ropes needed. The "Nosh" is a steep icy ridge with fixed rope routes. Total time: 1.5-3 hours. Be wary of strong gusts of wind.
Day 16: Trek along an easy rocky ridge to a plateau (6900 - 7000m). Possibly deep snow. Total time: 2-3.5 hrs.
Day 17 - 18: Descent along the same route. Descent takes 1/3 the time of the ascent.
We hope you like the program and assure you that we are absolutely open to any suggestions to increase the range of our services for the complete satisfaction of our clients and are happy to meet your special requirements.
Our tour operator will work closely with you or your travel agent to carefully prepare an itinerary based on your stated interests. | 
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